Guidebook descriptions are no longer reliable because of climate change. There is a massive risk of falling rocks, and challenging rock climbing. One of the most technically difficult tours in the Alps is the Piz Palü Trilogy (3899 m) in the Bernina massif, Switzerland, especially in summer. Roger Schäli and Romano Salis managed in 16 hours what a typical roped team usually does in 6 to 11, but with a difference: they climbed not just one but all three peaks in this time, accessing the start of each climb by air.
Starting in the Dark
August 3rd, 2 a.m on their watches, it's totally dark. Mountaineers Roger and Romano’s helmet lamps probe the darkness. The massive rock face rises in front of them. It’s both majestic and challenging, but the thirst for adventure and simple passion for the mountain drives them on. Their goal is defined: a climb & fly project that has been on their shared wish list for a year. The plan starts with the central peak. From afar the helmet lamps flicker in the cold as the two alpinists gain height metre by metre. The sky slowly turns orange. For Roger, this summit is a first; for Romano it is a routine adventure in his home territory.
Flying as a shortcut
This is hard work. Time for a rest? No reply from the leader – they have to keep moving. At the top they lay out their gliders and take off. They let the wind carry them to the start of a west pillar ascent. This section of the Palü Trilogy is a tough one, especially at this time of year – the climbing is more technically challenging than Roger expects. It is the least climbed pillar of the three. Heavily exposed, brittle and plagued by massive rockfall. Due to the difficult conditions, the team discuss turning back. Another option would be to simply fly out over a serac in the middle of the pillar. After briefly weighing up their options, they decide that it makes more sense to continue to the summit and take off from there. After several more hours of challenging climbing through rock, snow and ice, they reach the second summit with burning muscles. Tired but euphoric, they both agree that to omit the east pillar would be a great disappointment.
Over rock and firn
Several more hours of daylight give enough time for their third and final ascent. With their bodies already longing for some rest, Romano and Roger's thirst for adventure drives them on. The east summit proves to be a walk in the park for the two alpinists on an otherwise challenging tour. They make their way to the top over rock and through firn. 16 hours have passed. Once on the east summit, there is no rush this time. Roger and Romano again lay out their gliders, then enjoy the sunset as they glide down to the Diavolezza valley station.
Adventure right up to the last second
The challenge is over, but what remains is the memory of a record-breaking adventure: one that was never designed for speed. 16 hours, three pillars, two canopies, difficult conditions and an adventure that only a few will ever experience in this style. Climb & fly is not just exercise for the body, but also a challenge for the mind – and that's what makes it so special. Roger and Romano have discovered that unforgettable experiences like this always reawaken the urge to seek new adventures, and explore the boundless beauty of being alive.
The equipment
The Team
Romano Salis
Romano is a mountain guide and passionate paraglider pilot from Switzerland’s Engadin region. His favourite adventures combine Hike & Fly with long XC flights.
Roger Schäli
Roger is an internationally renowned alpinist. In addition to numerous climbing expeditions all over the world, he is particularly passionate about the Eiger. He has achieved numerous first ascents there and has climbed the notorious Eiger North Face over 50 times.